Our favorite café in Amman was Old View, off of Shar3 Rainbow, or Rainbow Street to the foreigners. I couldn't give you exact directions there, anything more than walk past the billboards and the guitar plaza, turn right after Souq Jara, and go a little further. It's a really gorgeous café though, where you can sit and chill and just watch the city for hours, as we did multiple times.
Every time we went we always had the same waiter, and he always seemed slightly disapproving of what we were ordering. Maybe it's because we tended to bring our own water in, but their water was ridiculously overpriced. We got maybe one or two things, ate the foul and pumpkin seeds and peanuts that came with the cover charge, and sat and talked for hours. Usually by the time we left it was dark, and because the café isn't lit by more than lanterns, we always had a heck of a time figuring out exactly how much we owed, because the check was scribbled on the smallest scrap of paper they could find in some messy Arabic. That probably contributed to his slight disapproval as well. We were quiet enough, and conservatively dressed, and spoke Arabic well enough to order without any problems though, so I'm not sure what the problem was.
We've already decided that if we ever go back there together, that's the first place we go.
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